Plate XXIVOther erasBuying note
Vintage Crystal Lamps: Lead Crystal, Prisms and Matching Pairs
How to choose a vintage crystal lamp: what lead crystal means, how to check a cut base and hanging prisms for damage, and what to compare on a pair.
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A vintage crystal lamp is usually made of lead glass, which is heavier than ordinary glass, rings when tapped and sparkles more once cut. To choose one, check the cut base and every hanging prism for chips and cracks, count the prisms against the photos, and compare both lamps closely if you are buying a pair.
What makes a lamp crystal rather than glass?
Lead. The Fort Wayne Museum of Art puts it plainly: “What we often call crystal is more accurately termed lead glass.” It says a batch with at least 20% lead oxide gives “a material with exceptional clarity and refraction,” and that the cooled glass is softer, which allows the deep, detailed cutting people associate with crystal. The Victoria and Albert Museum traces lead glass to English glassmaking, where lead oxide was added “to produce what was, in effect, a new material.”
The cutting is what makes a crystal lamp glitter. A Cooper Hewitt conservator explains that leaded glass “has a higher refractive index (RI) than glass without lead,” which is why “you notice a greater sparkle or brilliance,” and that it also disperses light, splitting it into flashes of color. Glassworkers cut it to make the most of both effects.
So “crystal” in a listing is a claim to check, best in your hands or by asking the seller. Lead crystal feels heavier than a soda-lime glass piece of the same size, and the Fort Wayne Museum of Art says it should ring when you tap or flick the rim. Its cut edges carry intricate cut designs. Held up to a lamp or a window, it should throw the strong sparkle and flashes of color the Cooper Hewitt conservator describes.
Vintage crystal table and boudoir lamps
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How do you check prisms and cut glass for damage?
Glass breaks before it bends. The Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI) says glass is “very hard and brittle and can easily crack or break on impact,” and that “a dull-sounding tap is an indication of a crack or fracture.” On a crystal lamp, damage hides in the cut edges and the hanging parts, so go over it in this order:
- The base. Run a finger along the cut ridges and the foot, and ask the seller about any chips. A crack that runs into the body matters more than a nick on an edge.
- The prisms. Count them against the listing photos. Check each one for chipped points and for matching length and cut, since odd replacements are easy to miss in a photo.
- The hooks and pins. Look at the wire clips that hold each prism, and the ring or bobeche they hang from. Bent or rusted clips can let a prism drop.
- The surface. The CCI says “iridescence, cloudiness, or milky colouring on the surface are all signs that the glass has deteriorated.” That haze will not wash off.
- Old repairs. Ask whether any part has been glued or repaired. The CCI advises consulting a conservator before trying to remove old repairs.
When you clean a lamp, unplug it and take the prisms off first. The CCI suggests washing sturdy glass by hand in lukewarm water with a drop of dish soap, in a basin lined with a towel, and says fine glass “should not be put through dishwashers.” Lift the base with both hands, and never by a projecting arm or finial: the CCI warns that handles and spouts “may not be well attached.”
Rewire before the first switch-on
A crystal lamp hides its wiring inside a glass column, but the cord and socket are as old as the rest of the lamp. Have the original wiring checked or replaced before you use it; the rewiring guide covers the parts. For new parts, UL advises shoppers to “Look for UL safety Marks on product packaging, the product itself or within product details when shopping online.”
What should you compare on a pair of crystal lamps?
Crystal lamps are often sold in pairs for a bedroom or either side of a sofa, and a matched pair is far easier to buy together than to assemble later. Ask for a photo of both lamps side by side, then compare:
- the overall height, with and without the shade;
- the pattern and depth of the cutting on the base;
- the number, shape and length of the prisms;
- the metal fittings, such as the socket cup and the foot, which should share one finish.
Small differences are normal in handmade glass. A different prism style or a replaced foot on one lamp is the kind of mismatch that shows once both are lit. Shades should match too: a small boudoir lamp needs one in scale with its base, and on a prism lamp the shade should clear the hanging crystals. The vintage lamp shade guide explains how to fit a shade by harp, fitter and size.
Art deco glass and crystal table lamps
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If your lamp has colored Venetian glass rather than clear cut crystal, see the Murano glass chandelier guide. To find out whether a lamp is valuable, see the antique lamp value guide. Back to the art deco lighting guide.
Frequently asked questions
Is crystal the same as glass?
Crystal is a kind of glass. The Fort Wayne Museum of Art says what we call crystal is more accurately termed lead glass, and that at least 20% lead oxide gives it its clarity and refraction. It is also heavier than ordinary soda-lime glass.
How can I tell if a lamp base is real crystal?
Compare its weight with a plain glass piece of the same size, look for intricate cut designs, and hold it to the light for flashes of color. The Fort Wayne Museum of Art adds that lead glass should ring when you tap or flick it.
Can I replace missing prisms on a crystal lamp?
Often, but matching the cut, length and color of old prisms is hard. Count the prisms against the photos before you buy, and if any are missing, look for loose lamp prisms in the same shape.
How do I clean the prisms?
Unplug the lamp, take the prisms off and wash sound ones by hand in lukewarm water with a drop of dish soap, in a basin lined with a towel. The Canadian Conservation Institute advises against putting fine glass in a dishwasher.
Should I buy crystal lamps as a pair?
If you want two that match, yes. Buying both at once is the simplest way to get a true match; compare the height, the cutting, the prisms and the metal fittings on both before you buy.
Sources
- Art Term Tuesday: Lead GlassFort Wayne Museum of Art
- Conserving the Surtout de Table: Cut GlassCooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum
- Ravenscroft bowlVictoria and Albert Museum
- Basic care: Ceramics and glassCanadian Conservation Institute
- Look for the UL Safety Mark When You BuyUL Solutions
Collection: Other erasIntroduction: Art Deco Lighting: How to Recognize and Buy 1920s and 1930s Lamps
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The whole cataloguePlate I
Art Deco Lighting: How to Recognize and Buy 1920s and 1930s Lamps
Photo: Francisco Anzola / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0Plate XXVII
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